Brunswick Fury Pearl or Brunswick Fury?

[BowlingFanatic]

Hi I am looking at getting a ball that wont die out quickly. I am looking for a ball with strong reaction with curve and hook that will work best on heavy, heavy conditions and that work on all as well. Also, if I choose the original fury can I use the 2000 and 4000 grit sanding pads like the fury pearl or if not what can i use to revive and/or dull the ball? Thanks!

[presence1960]

Re: Fury

I think your quest to find a ball that works on all conditions is going to be futile. The Fury is a low RG ball that doesnt have great length, but its spec sheet says has great midlane and continuous backend. Dulled it evens out the hook to an arc and shined it delivers more length with greater backend reaction.

You can play with the surface of any ball. Just because a ball comes factory 800 grit (The Fury is 800) that does not mean you can't alter the surface to match up your style with lane conditions. You can sand the fury to 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 or even 4000 as you suggest. Just bear in mind the higher the grit the less traction in the oil and greater length will you get. polishing will only increase the length. The lower the grit the greater traction and earlier, arcing hook action. Sanded too low of a grit and not enough oil will cause the ball to roll out, so unless you bowl in some heavy oil or have a really high ball speed I would not recommend sanding it lower than the factory 800 grit.

Also bear in mind you can't increase the hook potential of a ball, it will only hook so much as it was manufactured to hook. But you can have different layouts which can alter the balls break point or even cut down on the balls hook/flare potential. All these things will alter when and how the ball covers the boards, it will never increase it's hook potential.

The fury comes with a drill chart that ranges from early hook/ late hook Most flare/hook to early hook/late hook least flare/hook potential. First you want to evaluate your current arsenal and see what type of reaction is lacking. I suggest buying a ball that will fit into this category, because it makes no sense to have two balls that do the same thing (unless you are getting rid of a ball). Then see if the Fury or Fury Pearl fit that need. Secondly you want to get the advice of a good ball driller or pro shop operator who knows your game or is willing to watch you bowl a few games before making his recommendation. I despise pro shops who sell a ball to someone without knowing how the customer bowls, what his release and style is, ball speed etc. How can you recommend something for someone without knowing this info?

Lastly for most bowlers today one ball will not work on all lane conditions. From what I have seen on the lanes and read about the fury it is not a good dry condition ball. If dry conditions are your problem I would recommend buying a tame ball of which there a quite a few on the market rather than the fury..

[presence1960]

forgot one thing

In spite of all the possible drillings and layouts with todays cores, the surface of the ball still remains the single most important factor. This is because the coverstock is what contacts the lane surface and creates traction or friction. If you don't understand what this means picture a car with the most powerful engine and bald tires.

[litefrozen]

Well presence1960 covered it pretty well, I'll just my 2 cents worth.

If you could only choose from those two balls go with the fury pearl.
You'll be able to use it on more conditions than you can the fury by
adjusting the coverstock.

Are you sure you need a heavy oil ball? You said your "looking at getting a ball that wont die out quickly." is that whats been happen to you?

If so that sounds like you have a dry condition not a wet one. The ball is burning up and rolling out. If thats the case you sure don't want a fury, it needs alot of oil.

What kind of balls do you use now?

Also the way the Fury coverstock sucks up oil. You need to clean it after a couple of games or it will stop working till you clean it.

[BigDawg70]

I have the Fury and I have a Fury Pearl on the way. I experimented with the layout on my Fury and have been very very pleased. I drilled it pin up approx 6" from my PAP with a flare increasing x hole. This produced nice length and a very angular reaction.
If it helps, my PAP is 5 ½" and ¼" up. My ball speed is typically 16-17mph with above avg revs.
For me the layout produces 5-6" of track flare and a TON of back end. I will also tell you that even with this layout the ball was waaay too strong on our THS late shift in OOB condition. I tried several surfaces and have found the sweet spot (for me at least) using a white scotch brite and 3m finesse it. Even with this surface I end up having to play very deep by the 3rd game. I haven't thrown it on heavy oil yet but my guess is it will be golden.

[presence1960]

I swear by 3M Finesse It II. I polish mostly with this product. For those who aren't familiar with scotch brite pads here are the rough equivalents to sandpaper:

red/burgundy pad : 320
green pad : 600
grey pad : 1100
white pad : 2000

As you can see Big Dawg is roughly 2000 grit surface polished with Finesse It II. The Fury is an aggressive ball!

By the way scotch brite pads are great to finish coverstock preparation on particle balls.

[BigDawg70]

I could have really worked the cover stock to tame down the ball even more but what would be the point in that? I bought the ball for its big left turn reaction and thats exactly what I got after a little work. I really think that if you can find a surface prep that fits your game this ball could be super versatile on any condition but really dry.
I plan on taking this ball w/ me to travel league this Sunday where we bowl 6 games. The lanes go from flooded to toast over the course of the day so I will see how long I can stay with it before the tamer stuff comes out.

Speaking of Finesse it, be careful on how often you use it. From what I have heard, over time it will leave a build up in the pores of the coverstock. It is an automotive polish after all. It just gave me a better skid snap reaction on this ball than the Track Magic polish I normally use. I've just ordered some stuff called "Bean's Secret Sauce" that I've heard nothing but good things about. I'll report back with results once I get it.

[litefrozen]

Bigdawg70 has a point about watching Finesse it. Back when reactive resin first came out. It was said that "Finesse it I" could build up in the pores, because it contained ceramic particles that could get into the pores.
Now if "Finesse it II" is made in a similar fashion, a build up in the pores could be possible with it also.

[litefrozen]

From Brunswick about the fury peaarl-
Reaction Characteristics
•Out of the Box: With its 4000-grit finish, the Fury Pearl will provide a more skid/snap reaction than the original Fury and match up well on medium-dry to medium-oily lane conditions.
•If your Fury Pearl goes too long: Shiny surface finishes sometimes cause the ball to go too long before breaking. To get your Fury Pearl rolling sooner, dull the surface with a 2000-grit abrasive (Abralon or Scotch-Brite Gold pads) to increase hooking action. To further increase hooking action, use a rougher abrasive to create an earlier reaction.
•If your Fury Pearl hooks too early: Polish your Fury Pearl will Brunswick’s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish to increase length.

To bring your Fury Pearl back to its original factory finish, sand the surface with 4000-grit Abralon or White Scotch-Brite pads.

[presence1960]

re: finesse it II

I wouldn't doubt what Big Dawg and Litefrozen say about finesse it. I have never had a problem with it though, and I have been using it for 12 years. I know everyone doesn't do what I do when maintaining their coverstock. Most people will just clean their coverstock with approved cleaner , some will use unapproved liquids prior to polishing in an effort to clear the surface of the ball of all contaminants. I wet sand the coverstock with one step coarser than the surface finish, then with the correct grit to open and clean pores and all surface on the ball. Then I polish. I never throw another coat of polish over what is already on the ball.

I do this with whatever polish I use. A lot of people who give me their balls to resurface or clean and polish have their own favorite polish which they supply me with. It is way better to put it on with a spinner than by hand. And saves time and elbow grease too. Even for these people I wet sand before polishing to make sure entire surface and pores are good.

I will try to find out more about this subject from someone on Brunswick staff (also a PBA member) who drills for me. I look at it this way: I or anyone else does not know everything. We are never too old or too knowledgeable to learn. In any subject I have to leave open the possibility that I may be incorrect.