I wanted to know what is the best bowling ball and layout for longer and olier lanes?? I'm a straighter bowler can anyone help me?
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Layout and bowling ball for oilier lanes?
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From the way it sounds, you are trying to move from a straight ball to a hooking ball in your bowling career (which is great). But not knowing how advance you are at bowling, this can very tricky and getting poor advice is a real possibilty. Seeing how no one here would want to do that, I'd strongly suggest a good house Pro for advice. At least he/she will be able to observe you and point you in the direction best suited for your skill level. I'm sure they will be more than happy to help you with a few tips on the way too. When I say "House Pro," they don't have to be an actual PBA member (although many are), but someone with training in the field of bowling.
Good luck and hope this helps,
TenPin
P.S. If you insist though (because of the lack of a Pro in your area), I'm sure with a little more info ('I'm a straight bowler" isn't enough), we may be able to advise you better. I'd still strongly suggest the house Pro though.Be very, very, quiet please, I'm hunting ten pins and it's easier when they're not spooked
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I would try this layout with a solid reactive ball, it seems to work well for me when I want to more direct with a 500 grit surface but you may have to toy around with the surface - to keep it simple anyway. - Early Rolling Layout - Coaches are great but I have seen guys get messed up by going to camps and listening to bad advice. Get Information study the net read and pracitcing to me is the key. Expertiment and remember what worked today will not work tommorrow or next week be versatile. I have seen so many say I did well the last time doing that well like the weather things change. Best of luck
Last edited by topdog46; 07-19-2008, 12:49 PM.
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Your Pro guy suggested a early rolling high performance ball with a 500 grit finnish? Is this going to be your first or only ball? If it is going to be your first or only ball, might I suggest trying the OB finnish first? It's very possible you may want to polish instead of sanding it.Last edited by TenPin; 07-19-2008, 06:31 PM.Be very, very, quiet please, I'm hunting ten pins and it's easier when they're not spooked
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You did say this was for oiler lane rite?
You did say this was for oiler lane rite?
If so then yes like the other guy said try it out of the box first - but remember sanding smoothes out reaction - polish gives skid flip - here is a chart that helps me -
Bowling Ball Surface Reaction Chart Best of luck
- I like the Gamebreaker myself
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Yes he did.
Yes he did say oily lanes, but that can be subjective from person to person. Like my house, I consider the lanes to be medium/dry and many others in my house consider them oily/medium.
I understand and agree that changing the surface of the ball to 500 grit will smooth the reaction out. But how does it work when the lanes start to dry out by the mid of the 2nd or in the 3rd games? Seems to me the ball will lose a lot of energy in the heads and die when it gets to the pocket.Be very, very, quiet please, I'm hunting ten pins and it's easier when they're not spooked
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Hay dude its OK I was not attacking you. I personally like to tone my reactions down with different grits of abralon - like 4000 I have found that for me <- the shine actually makes the bowling ball more uncontrollable. gives the big over under -->but! On the right bowling environment can score HUGE! I my self like consistency my son is a all or nothing bowler.
my advice is keep it simple - read - study - experiment - practice and Have Fun
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ok, I'll throw my .02 in... 500 grit on any ball unless you have zero hand will do nothing but hit like a marshmallow and flat 10 all night. Anything that rough will more than likely burn up quickly and have no energy at the pins.
Like TenPin said, start with OOB and step down little at a time until you find the sweet spot.
As far as a layout that rolls early, keep in mind that the closer you place the pin to leverage (3 3/8" from PAP) the quicker it will roll. So make sure you have your PAP measured before throw a generic pin down under ring finger layout on it. Once you drill it hold off on the weight hole if possible. You can change the ball reaction with a weight hole. For example, if you were to draw a line from your pin to 2" past your PAP and drill a 1" weight hole 2" deep you will increase track flare and create an earlier rolling reaction.
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